Periods in Antique Jewellery History

Late Georgian  c. 1760-1837
Victorian          c.  1837-1901
Art Nouveau     c. 1890-1915
Edwardian       c 1901-1915
Art Deco   c. 1920-1935

Retro   c. 1935-1950

Late Georgian Jewellery c. 1760-1837

The late Georgian period includes the reigns of the British monarchs George III and IV, and William IV. It was a time of political and social upheaval, during which the American Revolution, the French Revolution and the Napoleonic Wars were fought.

Jewellery styles tended to be smaller, lighter pieces with chains and classical motifs. Short necklaces flattered the low necklines of the time. Common styles included rows of graduated diamonds or other stones.

 Diamonds were normally accessible to royalty only and were generally rose cut diamonds Popular brooch designs included motifs of diamond set bows floral sprays and feathers

Victorian c. 1837-1901

Queen Victoria ruled the throne between 1837 and 1901. She became the female trendsetter in times of prosperity and the Industrial Revolution. The emerging middle class created a demand for jewellery in mass quantity for a mass market.

Jewellery was large in appearance during the 1860's and 70's before becoming lighter and more delicate. Victoria's romantic nature inspired sentimental motifs including hearts, flowers and birds. Popular semi-precious stones such as amethyst, coral and opals were used to keep jewellery affordable. Large diamond deposits were found in 1867 and diamond jewellery became very popular with the introduction of electric lighting. The collectability of Victorian items continues to increase with time due to it's scarcity on the market.

Art Nouveau c. 1890-1915

This design period emerged towards the end of Victoria's reign. It was based on a return to craftsmanship and design rather than the material used and so semi-precious stones like amethyst, moonstone and citrine were widely used.

Different themes in Art Nouveau include mythical hybrid forms and the representation of a female head with long flowing hair which was prevalent in the Symbolist movement.

Edwardian c. 1901-1915

 The Edwardian era was an age of wealth, refinement, elegance and security, often referred to as La Belle Epoque , it was a brief period of of extravagance and sophistication between the sombre and late Victorian years of the first world war. The Edwardian period lasted from 1901 to 1915 and was a time when elegance and fashion became predominant values. New wealth flourished with the motor and movie industry movements.
 Edwardian jewellery was feminine  delicate and light in all its elements - in the new calibre and baguette cut stones, in the millegrain settings using the new metal Platinum and in its refined graceful designs. The fashion for a low neckline in the evenings made pendants most popular and diamonds and pearls were set in platinum for their white on white colour scheme. The strength of platinum enabled the creation of 'invisible' settings for jewels. Pearls were fashionable especially elegant pearl soutoires.

Diamond engagement rings from this period often contain filigree detail (twisted gold or silver wire) and are very popular in the modern market.

Art Deco c. 1920-1935

This period spans the years 1920 to 1935. A decadent time during which women became able to vote and fortunes were made and lost on the stock market until the crash of 1929 and the Great Depression of the 1930's. Post-war prosperity however, broadened the market for precious stones.

Jewellery  took its lead from Cubist 'modern art' and is apparent from the strong symmetry, geometry and streamlined shapes.
Antique Diamond Engagement rings
from this period are highly sought after and are often Asscher or Old European in cut.

Platinum was originally used by European Court Jewellers in the mid 1800's.  Until the lat 1800's it remained too expensive for commercial use and only the wealthy could afford platinum settings.  Until the late Edwardian period,  its colour remained out of favour for anything other than settings as yellow gold  was so fashionable.  However by the early 1900's  trends were changing and the new look being embraced and platinum remained the metal of choice for those who could afford it through the 20's and 30's until the effects of world war 2 made it far too costly to produce.

 

 

Retro c. 1935-1950

Many different jewellery themes are encompassed in this era with a decade of depression followed by the outbreak of WW2 and then mass socio-economic changes post-war as middle-class affluence boomed.

The taste for Hollywood glamour called for 'larger than life' jewellery and the presence of flags and military insignia indicate the patriotism of the war.

Antique designer jewellery from this era is very popular such as that made by Tiffany and Cartier.